Friday, July 11, 2014

Where to Eat in Boston's North End: Reviews and Recommendations



Hanover St. is the North End's main drag.
© 2014 Own photo



If you've just flown in to Logan International Airport, freshened up at your hotel, or if you live in or around Boston, and your kids are absolutely starving even though they've just finished a huge breakfast and mid-morning snack, a jaunt through the North End, Boston's "Little Italy," is a great way to start getting a taste of Boston. 

Galleria Umberto, 289 Hanover Street, Boston, MA, (617) 227-5709
© 2014 Own photo
Galleria Umberto
One of the not-so-secret best places to eat lunch in the North End - or anywhere in Boston - is Galleria Umberto at 289 Hanover Street. I have been eating Umberto's pizza since I came to the U.S. when I was two years old. My family would make the trek in from East Boston (and, later, from the North Shore), in all kinds of weather, to shop for fresh vegetables and fruit at the outdoor Haymarket, meat at Al Capone's, the Italo-Argentine butcher (until the fire in the late '70s/early '80s) and then into the North End for everything from bread (at Umberto's, back when they were mainly a bakery selling pizza slices on the side) to shoes. The lines at Umberto's have always been long, with people waiting patiently for up to an hour for a slice of heavenly pizza from this family-owned and operated eatery.

Since the mid-'70s, when they moved from Parmenter Street to Hanover Street (the North End's main street), Umberto's has been serving slices of Sicilian style pizza by the panful to faithful regular customers and tourists alike. They also serve the best arancini (fried Sicilian rice balls filled with a meat sauce, peas and cheese) I have ever eaten (and I keep trying to find similar or better, but with limited success), spinach and ricotta-stuffed calzones, panzarotti (these are the Italian equivalent of a knish, mashed potatoes stuffed with ham and flavored with Italian parsley, shaped like a log and fried). $30 buys 10 slices of pizza (half a pan), 2 arancini, a Minute Maid Lemonade, a Coke and a bottle of imported Italian (Peroni) beer. But beware - you may need to go ahead and order a full pan of pizza: the meal I described was just barely enough to feed two middle schoolers and a Mom (boy, did I need that beer!).

Galleria Umberto is usually open 11-2, Monday through Saturday, but you should definitely plan to get there early: when they run out, they close. If you would rather take your meal to eat al fresco (at the Rose Kennedy Greenway across from Hanover Street, for example), you can also call ahead (617-227-5709) and pick up your order. Note: if you're in Boston in July, though, you are out of luck: the family closes down for the month and takes its annual (well-earned) vacation.




Caffè Pompei
If you're in Boston in July, or you'd like your first meal to be more of a restaurant experience, but not upscale, you should eat at the Pompei. This is an actual restaurant (compared to Umberto's pared-down, cafeteria style), with solicitous waitstaff, that is family-oriented and still won't break your budget. About $40 will buy you an appetizer of fried calamari (squid) served with lemon wedges and a marinara (meatless tomato) sauce, a wood-oven baked pizza alla margherita (8 large slices of chopped fresh tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil), one beer, an iced cappuccino, an iced caffè latte, and a San Pellegrino limonata (an Italian lemonade soda, but less fizzy than American sodas).

 
© 2014 Own photo

La Dolce Vita, 221 Hanover Street, Boston, MA, (617) 720-0422
You may want a more elegant, upscale experience for dinner. If that is the case, La Dolce Vita is a good choice for authentic Italian cuisine; the taste of pretty much everything on the menu (yes, even their arancini) will transport you straight to the Italian peninsula. Unlike many "Italian" restaurants in the U.S. (sadly, some of these can even be found in Boston's North End), the entrees at La Dolce Vita are light but satisfying. I recently had their pasta primavera all'aglio ed olio, homemade fettucine chock full of mushrooms, green beans, carrots, broccoli, spinach, sauteed in garlic perfumed olive oil. The baked potato gnocchi, topped with marinara sauce and fresh mozzarella, served straight from the oven in a ceramic crock, are a much heartier - but just as tasty - option. Many entree options here are expensive, but if you don't order wine or dessert, you should be able to eat well for about $20 per person in your party. 

The only downside of our experience at La Dolce Vita was the service. Three of us (myself and two children) arrived ahead of the rest of our 7-person party. We were greeted, seated right smack in the middle of the restaurant (the only area set up for larger parties), incidentally, right near the waiters' prep area and in full view of the bar...and totally ignored for ten full minutes. No one offered us water or bread. No one spoke to us at all, not even Franco, the owner, who is always hovering around, until the rest of our party arrived. Oh, and ignore the art on the walls. They show scenes from the movie with Marcello Mastroianni, but the palette may just throw you off your feed. At any rate, although the food is good, I will not be dining at this restaurant again. But, if you decide to go, I hope your entire experience is good and not just the food.



 This is the first article, but the second installment of the  Free...in Boston, MA series, which includes the following:


As always, I invite your comments!

Peace,
Everymom1

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